Swift VDi Complete Audio Solution???

I have booked Swift VDi ABS in March an it is expected to arrive in June 1st week

I want the following :

-Pioneer Headunit (Required: USB; Optional: Bluetooth, AUX)

(In order of preference)

DEH-P7150UB / DEH-P5190UB / Others...

-Front Speakers: Very Heavy Component Speakers (Kicker/Pioneer/DLS/Others.....(In order of preference))

-Rear Speakers: (On Parcel Rack) Medium Bass expected (Low will also do)

1. Very Heavy Component Speakers (Kicker/Pioneer/DLS/Others.....(In order of preference)) or

2. Ultimate 6 x 9 Speakers (Kicker/Pioneer/Others.....(In order of preference))

I don't want to go for a Woofer (as of now, will think in future so HU must support Subwoofer) because my friend has had a bad experience of putting a 12" Subwoofer in Swift (No Boot Space Left)

I would be buying in Billed and Warranty mostly. But please do give me the cost for Grey as well as Billed.

??? : What would be the cost?

Budget is not a problem as i am a true music lover. (Max: 35000 INR) (No Woofer Strictly)

Output shoud be crystal clear and crispy.

I will be purchasing the Unit and giving it to my dealer Spectra Motors (Mumbai) where they will fix it up. (As i don't want to void the warranty)

??? : Is it necessary to put an amplifier for this configuration? (4 Channel)

Please mention the components with approx costs.

??? : What is the differnce between 1DIN and 2DIN except their size?

Please help!!!

Hi Vineet,

For about 35-40k I would do the following

1. HU go with the 7150. I assume this would be around 8-10.

2. Front Components : Polk Audio MM6501. 6.5" components. I run the 6.5" momo series which is the predecessor of the 6501. They are both at the same sq level. I can tell you that my polk momos are better than all the ones you have mentioned plus some others like the Focal Kelvar Polyglass series which cost twice as much. If you install components in the front door, make sure you deaden the doors with dynamat extreme. This makes the door a like a sealed cabinet for the speaker, like your home speakers cabinet. It helps with the bass. Most places that sell car audio will do this Cost Appx 16,000 for speakers + 4000 for dynamat. 

3. Rears: Forget about rears. I spent a ton for the polk 6x9 as my rears about a year back. I was running the components in front with the 6x9 rears off a polk 4channel amp. About 6 months back I wanted to raise the sound quality so I disconnected the rears, used all 4channels from my amp to bi-amp the front components. I now use only the fronts and a sub with a seperate amp. The sound is crystal clear. The entire sound feels like it is comming from the windshield i.e. from front. I can hear when the singer takes a breath while singing. I now know that the pluck of guitar string is not one sound but a sequence of sounds that goes from a fat bassy sound at 80hz to the end of its note at a thin 1.25khz. I could never have reached here if i were using 4 speakers. I am only using this as an example you will not reach this level till you can time align, have atleast 10 frequencies that you can control for left and right, etc. I am trying to illustrate that 2 speakers will always sound better than 4 from  pure sound quality perspective.

All music is recorded for 2 channels Left and right. Hence all you need is 2 speakers. Any more and you are adding phase issues and frequency cancellation issues. Think of it this way, if you throw a stone in pond what happens? You get ripples. Now if you throw 4 stones together what happens? You get 4 sets of ripples some that collide with each other and cancel each other. When you run 4 speakers which are at different distance from your ear.

3. Amp : If you install components you must get an amp. Dont go by the 50Wx4 specs put out for all head units. This is peak power. The reference is RMS and ALL HU's have 12-15watts rms. So you would be feeding your components rated at 100watts rms a piddly 15watts. Its like buying a porsche and running it on cng . Get a good 2channel amp. 2x80 watts kicker, polk audio - Rs 12,000.

Down the line you can put a nice 8" subwoofer in a small sealed enclosure along with a mono amp to drive the sub. That would be another 20k for the two.

As for the difference between 1din and 2din, you got it right. ts only a difference of size. Din is the industry standard so that the head units and slots in the car for fitting these hu's, are standardised. 1din = 7inches wide x 2inches high. 2din = 7" x 14". Thats it. So if someone tries to sell you a 2din unit and tells you its better just cause its 2din, you know the guy is full of bs.

slight correction 2din would be 7" x 4" not 14" This is what happens when u post at 4 in the morning

Hi Vineet,

For about 35-40k I would do the following

1. HU go with the 7150. I assume this would be around 8-10.

2. Front Components : Polk Audio MM6501. 6.5" components. I run the 6.5" momo series which is the predecessor of the 6501. They are both at the same sq level. I can tell you that my polk momos are better than all the ones you have mentioned plus some others like the Focal Kelvar Polyglass series which cost twice as much. If you install components in the front door, make sure you deaden the doors with dynamat extreme. This makes the door a like a sealed cabinet for the speaker, like your home speakers cabinet. It helps with the bass. Most places that sell car audio will do this Cost Appx 16,000 for speakers + 4000 for dynamat. 

3. Rears: Forget about rears. I spent a ton for the polk 6x9 as my rears about a year back. I was running the components in front with the 6x9 rears off a polk 4channel amp. About 6 months back I wanted to raise the sound quality so I disconnected the rears, used all 4channels from my amp to bi-amp the front components. I now use only the fronts and a sub with a seperate amp. The sound is crystal clear. The entire sound feels like it is comming from the windshield i.e. from front. I can hear when the singer takes a breath while singing. I now know that the pluck of guitar string is not one sound but a sequence of sounds that goes from a fat bassy sound at 80hz to the end of its note at a thin 1.25khz. I could never have reached here if i were using 4 speakers. I am only using this as an example you will not reach this level till you can time align, have atleast 10 frequencies that you can control for left and right, etc. I am trying to illustrate that 2 speakers will always sound better than 4 from  pure sound quality perspective.

All music is recorded for 2 channels Left and right. Hence all you need is 2 speakers. Any more and you are adding phase issues and frequency cancellation issues. Think of it this way, if you throw a stone in pond what happens? You get ripples. Now if you throw 4 stones together what happens? You get 4 sets of ripples some that collide with each other and cancel each other. When you run 4 speakers which are at different distance from your ear.

3. Amp : If you install components you must get an amp. Dont go by the 50Wx4 specs put out for all head units. This is peak power. The reference is RMS and ALL HU's have 12-15watts rms. So you would be feeding your components rated at 100watts rms a piddly 15watts. Its like buying a porsche and running it on cng . Get a good 2channel amp. 2x80 watts kicker, polk audio - Rs 12,000.

Down the line you can put a nice 8" subwoofer in a small sealed enclosure along with a mono amp to drive the sub. That would be another 20k for the two.

As for the difference between 1din and 2din, you got it right. ts only a difference of size. Din is the industry standard so that the head units and slots in the car for fitting these hu's, are standardised. 1din = 7inches wide x 2inches high. 2din = 7" x 14". Thats it. So if someone tries to sell you a 2din unit and tells you its better just cause its 2din, you know the guy is full of bs.

Vineet,

Get the above mentioned HU. - 9k

Front: Polk/Illusion/Hertz/Rockford fosgate: 7k (listen to them an then decide)

Rear: Polk db691/JBL 947 (listen to them an then decide) - 4500

Amp: JBL 1004 - 10k

Cables and Basic Damping on the front door: 5k.

Thanks a lot Ami and Arun

Guys i have got this quotation from my audio dealer

UNIT : Pioneer DEH-P5190UB - 12000/-

FRONT : DLS Component B6A - 7800/-

REAR : DLS 6X9 962 - 8500/-

AMP : 4CH MTX 960W - 13500/-

Total = 41800/-

Please suggest whether can i go with this setup..

DLS makes some good mid to high end speakers. The front comps that you have selected are 50watts rms. The rear 6x9 are 100watts rms.

When you amp these speakers, the sound from the rear will drown out the sound from the front comps. It will sound like the entire sound is comming from the back. I suggest you go back and read post # 4.

Get better components for front, Instead of the rears get a sub which you can hook up to your amp. This will make it a complete system.

For the front comps look at DLS R6A, Polk MM 6501, Genesis etc these are all in the 12-13k range. Dont forget you would need to dampen your doors, another 4k.

MTX 960Watts is the peak power that doesnt mean anything. What is the amps rms power (the average power it puts out)? Can you give the model #?. Again there may be better alternatives. IE amps that put out cleaner watts at the same or simmilar price.

For the sub you can look at the DLS W710 or the OA10, or the polk MM 2110, mid end jbl etc. These would be around 8K.

Add another 5k for wiring, install and sub box. Your total comes to around 50K and I promise this system would rock.

Damping and cables are missing.

It is very important in a setup like these.

I dont see a point in spending so much on rears. I would divert most of the amount for the fronts and settle for a good 6.5'' co-axials. Mainly because subs would be coming in the future.

Thanks again..

I think u are right i need to go for a higher end speaker at the front.

Could u please tell me the cost of DLS R6A and Polk MM6501?

But is my rear speaker ok?

i donno the model of amplifier but i think it is 50w rms per channel (4channel)

i will downgrade my panel to 3190 to reduce the cost

Absolutely.

Yes, but consider a lower one.

The chain is as strong as the weakest link. For your kind of setup a 7150 will be needed. The area where you have to cut costs would be at the rear fills area.