You are here : Community » Forums » Articles » How to improve mileage of Honda City (current: 18 kmpl; goal: 23 kmpl)?
Today's Posts | Search Forums | My Messages

How to improve mileage of Honda City (current: 18 kmpl; goal: 23 kmpl)?

#11 11-Jan, 2009 09:20 PM
Krishna
Moderator
Joined Date: 10 Jan 2009
Location: Noida
Posts: 3489
Likes: 5

Hi Binoy, I totally respect your position on the inflation part. Let us leave it at that.

I do look at those hypermilers half the world away, but very little of what they do is relatable to me. That is why I turned to an indian community fo seek help - What the firangs think as routine would be very much difficult here in india, something I am realizing through that quest for scangauge. After knowing about it for about a month, I don't  see a vendor or definitive information for me to figure it out or try it. There in the west, it would be either a short drive to the 'auto parts store' and a quick plug-in.

The lean remap - I am new to all ECU modding techniques. For sure I may not be able to  pull this off myself. Is there a how-to or an article on the lean remap? Would my dealership do it for me? (for a fee?)  What are the benefits? how much kmpl difference do I expect to see?

Thanks in advance for answers, eagerly looking forward for them

Regards,

Krishna



0 members liked this post
 
#12 11-Jan, 2009 09:42 PM
Binoy
Moderator
Joined Date: 23 Apr 2008
Location: Cochin
Posts: 6684
Likes: 2

Here is quick peek into the world of 'remaps'-its something that one should stay away from if not technically inclined in remaps(which i am not)-do have a look.

The Honda dealer will not do any remaps-lean maps means tweaking the air fuel mixture to run lean(ie less fuel more air)-the FE gain by this can vary quite a bit(can be substantial also)-but this in the long run can harm the engine.



0 members liked this post
 
#13 12-Jan, 2009 12:44 AM
Karan
Legend
Joined Date: 25 Jan 2007
Location: Mumbai
Posts: 4056
Likes: 3

Posted by Krishna

Karan,

I never come close to taillgating anyone, to apply emergency brakes. Even those 'meant-for-8-carrying-30' three-wheelers overtake me. Doing P&G between 50-30 in quieter Gr. Noida roads means I am never hard-pressed for brake assists. Of course, one principle in hypermilinng is to be constantly aware, and manage your vehicle in a way to avoid any momentum loss, and any unnecessary need to engage engine, This covers the safety part. And keeping in mind always that I may need to stand on my brake pedal if required takes care of such occurances.

P&G and having a lighter car is all I do currently to get the milage I am getting. Am not aware of any tricks with the engine or other handling, hence the request to help.

Cheers,

Krishna

oh..greater NOida ..!!...well dats kool den !!.....chill !....

infact....even i did it wid my Swift VDI wen it was new.....

n it gave me 20 !...which was kool......

but ya...dont do it on DND....because others can b very "moody"...

cheers !



0 members liked this post
 
#14 12-Jan, 2009 12:59 PM
Rachit
Best-seller
Joined Date: 07 Nov 2008
Location: Mumbai
Posts: 956
Likes: 4

Krishna, first of all welcome to CarWale.


I have written an article on this. Though I haven't edited it. Will edit it soon and will ask Ban to upload it inthe CW articles.


Run your car like a hare and yet save fuel

 

With the petrol prices going up, the demand for fuel thirsty cars might just go down. Many people are concerned about the mileage of their car. And mostly the concerned people are the ones who own these thirsty engines. The biggest question troubling them is about the fuel economy and means to improve it.

 

Physical State: The physical state of the engine is the main factor affecting the mileage of a car. The compression ratio should be up to the mark. The spark should be firing properly, the air filter should be clean to avoid or the engine would require more power to pump in air. The brakes shouldn’t be dragging with the wheels. The pressure in the tire should be a bit more than factory suggested one in order to increase the handling along with the efficiency.

 

                The oil used in the engine, gears are important to get a good fuel economy. The oil should be thin enough for the engine to function properly with the least friction. Use the thinnest grade oil in the recommended ones by the manufacturer.

The engine has to pay a heavy price if the inlet (air filter) and exhaust are choked. A lot of the horsepower generated by the engine would be wasted in pumping the air in and out. Once the car gets a bit old, the catalytic converter gets choked. And its very common in old cars. In order to check the functioning of the cat, go for a back pressure test.

 

Modification: Using free flows or performance air filters do help the engine to improve the efficiency. In some cases bigger exhaust systems could also be used. Increasing the compression ratio surely increases the efficiency of the engine, as more energy would be generated. Fuel economy is increased only when the air-fuel ratio is maintained for road use.

 

Aerodynamics: Here comes my very favorite topic. Aerodynamics comes into picture once the car crosses the speed of 60km. A lot of energy of the engine goes to waste as it tries to overcome this drag. Stylish spoilers can slightly increase the down force of the car. And at the most a tray can be attached to reduce the drag being caused underneath the car. Avoid carrying load on top of the car to reduce drag.

 

Weight: Adding extra weight to the car would result in burning more petrol. Loading your car with heavy woofers, or tools means simply giving away your money.

 


I tried this and I had understeer, I tried that and I had oversteer, at the end of the corner I just ran out of talent!

0 members liked this post
 
#15 12-Jan, 2009 01:00 PM
Rachit
Best-seller
Joined Date: 07 Nov 2008
Location: Mumbai
Posts: 956
Likes: 4

Electronics: With electronics coming into picture, the maintenance of sensors is also very important. Some people are of the belief that disconnecting the oxygen sensor would give them a better efficiency. But I don’t think so it helped me. If the oxygen sensor isn’t clean, it would result in bad economy. It will mislead the ECM, changing the air-fuel ratio. Something similar happens when this sensor is disconnected.

 

Driving Style: This factor plays the most crucial role in deciding the fuel economy of the car. Even a perfect car driven by a bad driver can affect the efficiency. That’s why it’s always said, in the end its all on left to driving. The driver should flow keeping the traffic in mind. Whenever he sees the red light, he shouldn’t jump from the accelerator to the brake, if one does then it would result in burning of greater fuel. You have enough time to roll into another gear. Avoid red lining the rpm meter to save fuel.

 

Shifting into another gear when the car reaches its maximum torque is the best way to save fuel. When driving on a straight line, whether full throttle or just cruising. The pedal movement should be almost constant like the cruise control. Immediate opening and closing drivers can be categorized as bad.

 

But if you drive conservatively and well most of the time and hard on throttle at times only when you are in hurry or when you want to leave behind someone. When the engine is cold started don’t wait for it to heat up buy idling it, drive it off, but see to it that you drive it gently until it reaches its working temperature.

Cheers




I tried this and I had understeer, I tried that and I had oversteer, at the end of the corner I just ran out of talent!
Last Updated: 12-Jan, 2009 01:00 PM, by Rachit
0 members liked this post
 
#16 12-Jan, 2009 02:01 PM
Binoy
Moderator
Joined Date: 23 Apr 2008
Location: Cochin
Posts: 6684
Likes: 2

Nicely put together Mustang, way to go!



0 members liked this post
 
#17 12-Jan, 2009 03:34 PM
Krishna
Moderator
Joined Date: 10 Jan 2009
Location: Noida
Posts: 3489
Likes: 5

Hi Mustang,

Thanks for your pointers.

Talking about gentle driving, all my driving is gentle. But some of that Use-Your-Car-at-Max-Torque talk has started to get my goat - it is in direct conflict with drive-like-a-granny tenet which I follow religiously. Am I wrong? While doing P&G, I always think about balancing the FE achieved by easier acceleration with the shorter pulse timings of a robust 2.5k rpm pulse achieved in 4-6 seconds - Is there a way to hit the highest FE spot doing this?

Where do I get speed torque curves for my Honda City Exi 2004? And another word - If I ever touch the ECU map, I am on my own regarding this torque characteristics info, till I revert to my stock ECU settings... isn't it?

I am conservative regarding mods, and will not indulge in permanent scarring of my car. But the underbody paneling using corrugated plastic sheets as well as rear wheel skirts are in my list, to be touched after major things like a lean remap..

@Binoy, I have contacted the alibaba contact, lets see if he responds.

Guys, thanks a ton, and keep them tips flowing...Smile



0 members liked this post
 
#18 12-Jan, 2009 03:39 PM
Krishna
Moderator
Joined Date: 10 Jan 2009
Location: Noida
Posts: 3489
Likes: 5

Mustang,

The cat choking part is worrying me.. I would get it checked at my next service. BTW, what happens if the service guy tells it is choked? (of course you cannot 'burn' it like a bajaj muffler sawn, burnt, cleaned, welded back and returned to faithful service till the next cleanup, I guess )

What is the solution and how much does it cost? What is the frequency of occurance of muffler chocking in normal / conservative use condition



0 members liked this post
 
#19 12-Jan, 2009 06:43 PM
Ami
Ameen
Legend
Joined Date: 12 Sep 2008
Location: Thrissur
Posts: 4696
Likes: 4

Awesome post Mustang.



0 members liked this post
 
#20 13-Jan, 2009 07:36 AM
Krishna
Moderator
Joined Date: 10 Jan 2009
Location: Noida
Posts: 3489
Likes: 5

@Mustang - Waiting for your reply on the cat choking issue, use of torque characteristics for fuel efficient driving in P&G. I am already compliant to all driving style suggstions, except for this confusion about speed while pulsing - as slow as possible, within a reasonable time for a pulse? (I am used to shift between 1k - 1.5k ... shift in a gear at 1k, shift out at 1..5 to the next... creep up to 50 kmph like this... engine off coasting till getting back to 25/30 km, repeat the cycle after a bump start). I tried going briskly (revving upto 2.5k rpm  in a gear before shifting to next gear, could do  only 2-3-4 sequence before I reached 60 and shut off engine) ....Which way is the best?

Unfortunately I have no way of instant feedback except wait for my next tank results which are taking forever...The tank results would be a mixed results because I am trying out so many things at the same time.. but I am near to rambling here....

Binoy, isn't there something like this link from UK where one drives up to a shop and mods the ECU? and when I do get mine modded, would it be for power or for FE (because P&G would continue, and a powerful and efficient pulse would lead to efficiency... I am confused here...

http://www.mobilechiptune.co.uk/html/testimonials.html

BTW the feedback on the link is paramount, I will be breaking my keyboard pressing F5 on this thread... Smile



0 members liked this post