Power consumption-wise, the car battery can support such external attachment. But Power requirement-wise, there is a serious problem, as all electronics in the car runs on 12V DC nominal. This voltage can fluctuate quite a bit as a result of battery charging (14.4V nominal) to less than 10 V, when the engine is being cranked.
There should be an inverter (like we have in our houses, just smaller) that can connect to the battery and convert it to 220V, so that the power supply of the 2.1 speakers can be connected.
otherwise, if the speakers run off 12v internally (you would need to know for sure, to quite some degree of certainty) the inverter and the 12V power supply can both be discarded and the amplifier from the speakers can be connected to 12v. But mostly this is not a do-it-yourself operation, professional help would be needed.
Doing all this, what is being achieved? the 2.1 speakers would generally be less powerful than the HU itself in quite some cases, as the 2.1 speakers rating will be mentioned in PMPO - peak music power output, which is a very misleading term for describing audio output. The crappiest of HUs would probably be better, as the lowest I have seen rated is my own ancient Alpine cassette player, which is rated 35W x 4. This rating is usually RMS (root mean square), a better means to describe the available power (If you dig deeper, even this rating is not for continuous power, but we can come to that later).
In summary, the car will be wired for a car audio system, and it is much better to put a car audio system there than the 2.1 speakers, where theoretically one can put 2.1 after a long R&D effort.
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